Day 8: Lake Kawaguchiko to Kyoto and Gion and Higashiyama in Kyoto at Night
Sunrise and Breakfast at Fuji Lake Hotel
The Fuji Lake Hotel offers a complimentary observation deck with panoramic views of Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko. Sunrise was scheduled for 6:15am, so I headed up early to catch the first light. Expecting it to be outdoors, I bundled up in my Patagonia jacket, scarf, and hat, only to realize it was fully enclosed. I definitely didn’t need all the layers, but it’s always better to be prepared! Seeing Mount Fuji in the soft early morning light was absolutely stunning. A handful of others were there enjoying the sunrise as well. It was such a peaceful way to start the day.
After getting photos of Mount Fuji, I headed back down to my room to pack up and get breakfast. The hotel offers a breakfast buffet with over 40 Japanese and Western dishes, including soup, pastries, and eggs. The dining room also has stunning panoramic views of Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko, which made the experience even better.
Wandering around downtown Lake Kawaguchiko
I had considered visiting the Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway, since it was just a 10-minute walk from my hotel. The ride itself only takes about 3 minutes each way, but I had read that the full experience, including waiting in line and spending time at the observation deck, could take up to an hour.
I had a ticket for the 11:20am bus from Kawaguchiko Station to Mishima, where I’d catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto. It felt like I probably had enough time to fit it in, but I was concerned about lines forming before the 8:30am opening, especially on a Saturday, which could make the experience take even longer. I also realized I just wanted a slower, more relaxed morning after running around so much in Tokyo.
Rather than risk missing my bus, I decided to skip it. It’s definitely something I’d add to my list for next time!
Instead, when I was all packed up, I walked to Kawaguchiko Station, making sure to pass by the famous Lawson convenience store along the way so that I could capture the viral photo of Mount Fuji appearing to sit on the roof. There was a bit of a crowd lined up trying to get photos, but everyone was nice and orderly, and very polite, which made it easy to get a couple of good shots.
After getting photos of the Lawson, I got some photos around Kawaguchiko Station, taking it all in, enjoying the relaxing morning.
Lake Kawaguchiko to Kyoto
The most efficient way to get from Lake Kawaguchiko to Kyoto is:
Take a bus to Mishima Station (~90 minutes)
Take the Shinkansen from Mishima to Kyoto (~2–2.5 hours)
I took the 11:20am bus from Kawaguchiko Station, arriving at Mishima Station North Exit at 12:50pm. I had purchased my ticket for the bus on November 27 via the Sekitori site. With just under an hour before my train, I grabbed lunch at the station and took some time to relax.
I boarded the 1:46pm Shinkansen from Mishima to Kyoto, which I had purchased the day prior from the smartEx app. One thing to note about the SmartEX app is that it does not take Visa, but does accept MasterCard.
There are two main types of Shinkansen trains on this route:
Hikari (fewer stops, ~1h 50m)
Kodama (local train, ~2h 25m)
I took the Hikari train so I could arrive in Kyoto earlier and make the most of the evening.
After arriving in Kyoto, I took the Karasuma Line from Kyoto Station to Shijō Station, then walked to The Machiya Ebisuya, my home base while in Kyoto.
Checking into the The Machiya Ebisuya
The Machiya Ebisuya is a traditional boutique machiya hotel in central Kyoto, within walking distance of the Gion district. I chose to stay there for its central yet quiet location and its blend of traditional Japanese design with modern comfort. It’s also conveniently close to Nishiki Market and Kawaramachi Street, making it an ideal base for exploring the city.
What really drew me in, though, was the boutique “machiya” style. Inspired by traditional Kyoto townhouses, the hotel offers a more immersive, local experience while still providing modern amenities like spacious, clean rooms, helpful staff, and thoughtful touches like laundry facilities and complimentary drinks.
It felt like the perfect balance of convenience, comfort, and experiencing a more traditional side of Kyoto.
In the Moon rooftop bar
After checking in, I headed to In the Moon, a rooftop cocktail bar near the Kamo River, just off Gion’s famous Hanami-kōji Street. It’s a great spot to catch sunset, with views toward Arashiyama in the distance and the illuminated Minamiza Theater across the street.
The bar is open from 6:00pm to 1:00am, though it fills up quickly. I arrived right at 6:00pm and was able to grab a seat without any trouble. I had a burger and a drink before heading out around 6:30pm to start exploring Kyoto.
Yasaka Shrine
My first stop was Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine, one of Kyoto’s most famous shrines. It was a 10 minute walk from In the Moon rooftop bar. Open 24 hours and free to visit, it sits between the Gion and Higashiyama districts.
It’s especially beautiful at night, when the shrine is illuminated by hundreds of vermilion lanterns that cast a warm glow across the grounds. I spent about 30 minutes walking around and taking it all in before continuing on.
Kodaiji Temple nighttime illumination
From Yasaka Shrine, it was about a 10-minute walk to Kodaiji Temple.
Established in 1606 by Nene in memory of her husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Kodaiji is one of Kyoto’s most historically significant temples. The temple is known for its beautifully designed gardens, featuring ponds, maple trees, bamboo groves, and carefully arranged landscapes meant to evoke natural scenery.
The temple hosts special nighttime illumination events in the spring, summer, and fall, running from sunset until 9:30pm, with admission at ¥600. The fall illumination, held from late October through early December, lights the autumn foliage up in vibrant colors, with reflections shimmering across the water and soft lighting throughout the grounds, creating an especially magical atmosphere.
I spent about an hour wandering through the temple grounds before heading back to the hotel around 7:45pm to relax and get some rest for my day trip to Nara the next morning.
