Peru - Day 2: Lima to Cusco to Ollantaytambo

On Friday, June 14, 2024, we landed in Lima, Peru, caught a connecting flight to Cusco, and then had a driver take us to Ollantaytambo, where we spent the rest of the day exploring the town and its archaeological site.

Lima to Cusco

We landed in Lima, Peru at 4:10am. We then had a connecting flight from Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima to Cusco, departing at 8:00am and arriving at Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport around 10:00am.

Cusco to Ollantaytambo

Before leaving Chicago, we had arranged for a private ride to take us from the Cusco airport to Apu Lodge in Ollantaytambo, where we planned to spend some time acclimating before continuing on to Cusco. Along the way, we stopped at Textiles Chaska Andina before continuing on to our hotel. We arrived at Apu Lodge around 12:30pm.

Cusco, where we would eventually begin the Lares Trek, sits at an elevation of about 11,152 feet. Coming from Chicago, which is only around 597 feet above sea level, we were a little nervous about immediately going somewhere at such a high elevation. Ollantaytambo sits at about 9,160 feet. While it is still quite high, we felt that spending some time there first would give us a slightly more gradual introduction to the altitude before continuing on to Cusco.

My friends and I chose to stay at Apu Lodge because it offered a quiet, relaxed atmosphere while still being within walking distance of the center of town. The lodge is surrounded by mountains and gardens, which made it a really nice place to stay while getting settled in Ollantaytambo.

Lunch at Apu Veronica

After getting settled into the hotel, we headed back out for lunch at Apu Veronica, a casual restaurant in Ollantaytambo specializing in Peruvian and Andean cuisine made with local ingredients. We shared several dishes, including lomo saltado (sautéed beef strips), Ollantay (stone-grilled lamb steak), chicharrón (deep-fried pork), and chicha morada, a traditional Peruvian drink made from purple corn.

Ollantaytambo Archaeological Site

After lunch, we spent the afternoon exploring the Ollantaytambo Archaeological Site, one of the most significant Inca sites in the Sacred Valley. The complex served as a royal estate, religious center, and military stronghold, and its massive stone terraces rise dramatically above the town.

Ollantaytambo is especially unique because the modern town below the archaeological site still follows much of its original Inca street plan, making it one of the best-preserved examples of a continuously inhabited Inca settlement in Peru. We spent about 1.5 to 2 hours exploring the ruins, climbing the terraces, and taking in the views over Ollantaytambo and the surrounding mountains.

Wandering Around Ollantaytambo

After we finished exploring the archaeological site, we spent some time wandering around Ollantaytambo, stopping at the Chocolate Museum, El Albergue Ollantaytambo, and Plaza Principal de Ollantaytambo.

El Albergue Ollantaytambo is a historic hotel located directly at the Ollantaytambo train station. Originally built in 1925, it is known for its gardens, mountain views, and views overlooking the train platform. While we weren’t staying there, we had read that it was a pretty place to visit, so we walked over from the archaeological site to take a look around and snap some photos.

When we were done, we walked back toward Plaza Principal de Ollantaytambo and continued exploring the town.

Dinner at Mallki Pizzeria

Around 6:00pm, we stopped for dinner at Mallki Pizzeria, a cozy wood-fired pizza restaurant with outdoor seating. While we ate, a small group of musicians performed, which added to the atmosphere and made dinner feel especially memorable.

I ordered the Pizza Ranchera, and it was really good! It was a wonderful way to cap off our first full day in Peru.