Day 9: Mesa Verde National Park
Mesa Verde Overlooks
On Wednesday, September 21, 2022, I had reservations for two ranger-guided tours: one at 9am at Cliff Palace and the other at 3pm at Long House. I departed Retro Inn at Mesa Verde at 6:30am to ensure I arrived at Cliff Palace on time, making stops at Montezuma Valley Overlook, Park Point Overlook, and Geologic Overlook along the way, as well as purchasing a magnet at the gift shop.
Cliff Palace
Cliff Palace is the largest and most famous cliff dwelling in the park, featuring over 150 rooms and more than 20 kivas (rooms for religious rituals). The one-hour ranger-guided tour involves 120 uneven stone steps and climbing five ladders (8–10 feet each) on a 100-foot vertical climb, covering a total distance of about ¼ mile round-trip.
Hemenway House Overlook and Soda Canyon Overlook Trail
Following the Cliff Palace Tour, I made a quick stop at Hemenway House Overlook to take photos before proceeding to the Soda Canyon Overlook Trailhead.
The Soda Canyon Overlook Trail is an easy 1.2-mile out-and-back trail winding through mesa-top pinyon-juniper forest to three overlooks at the edge of Soda Canyon. This vantage point also offers the only view of Balcony House without requiring a ranger-guided tour. It took me about 40 minutes to complete the hike.
Spruce Tree House
Next, I visited Spruce Tree House, the third largest cliff dwelling in the park. Due to safety concerns related to rock falls, the dwelling has been closed since February 23, 2016, and remains closed for the foreseeable future. While exploring the dwelling itself isn’t possible, the overlooks near the museum still provide superb views of Spruce Tree House.
Step House
Departing Spruce Tree House around 12:30pm, I headed to the Wetherill Mesa area of the park, arriving at the parking lot around 1:30pm. With time before the Long House Tour, I hiked the 1-mile trail to Step House, the smallest of the five main dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park. The self-paced visit allows for exploration at leisure, with a ranger on duty in the dwelling to answer questions. It took me approximately 50 minutes to hike to Step House and back.
Long House Tour
Finally, I made my way to the trailhead for Long House, the second-largest cliff dwelling in the park. Long House is nearly equal in size to Cliff Palace, with about 150 rooms, 21 kivas, and a row of upper storage rooms. It may have been home to 150–175 people. The two-hour tour involves a 2.25-mile round-trip hike with steep switchbacks, stairs, and two 15-foot ladders.
Dinner at Main Street Brewery
Leaving the park around 4pm, I returned to the hotel to freshen up before dining at La Casita de Cortez for some delicious Mexican food, followed by a refreshing beer at Main Street Brewery.
