Montreal - Day 3: Montreal Olympic Park, Botanical Garden and Downtown Montreal
Montreal Olympic Park
On Saturday, May 13, 2023 I had breakfast at the hotel. Once satiated and caffeinated, I took the train to see Montreal Olympic Park. Built for the 1976 Summer Olympics, the site is anchored by the striking Olympic Stadium and its leaning tower, which has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. It was really cool to see in person!
Montreal Botanical Garden
After walking around for a bit, I crossed the street to the Montreal Botanical Garden, a sprawling 190-acre complex of thematic gardens and greenhouses. Designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2008, it is considered one of the most important botanical gardens in the world for the breadth of its collections and research facilities. I arrived around 10am and stayed until noon, taking time to wander through several of the different garden areas.
Downtown Montreal
From there, I took the green line back to the Saint-Laurent stop and spent some time exploring Downtown Montreal and the Quartier des Spectacles neighborhoods. Along the way, I passed through Esplanade Tranquille, a year-round public space in the heart of Quartier des Spectacles that transforms into a lively urban terrace in the summer.
Getting hungry, I made my way to Schwartz's Deli, hoping to grab lunch. I arrived around 1:45pm, but the line was already quite long on the sidewalk. Too hungry to wait, I opted for a quick slice at Pizza Pizza, which turned out to be exactly what I needed.
Next, I made my way to the heart of Downtown Montreal, stopping at McGill University to snap a few photos of the campus. It really is a beautiful campus!
Dorchester Square, a large urban park surrounded by historic buildings, was my next spot on my itinerary of downtown Montreal. It was a beautiful place to wander through before continuing on.
From there, I made my way to Christ Church Cathedral, a stunning example of neo-Gothic architecture. The cathedral’s intricate stained-glass windows and soaring interior offered a peaceful retreat from the bustle of the city.
While at Christ Church Cathedral, I realized my phone was running low on battery, and I had unfortunately forgotten to charge my portable charger the night before. Next on my list was Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral.
On my way to the cathedral, I came across Time Out Market. Desperate to charge my phone, I wandered in hoping to find an outlet. As luck would have it, there were a few seats with outlets right by the entrance! I stayed for about 30 minutes to recharge, then continued on to Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, the third-largest church in Quebec and an impressive, scaled-down replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, featuring a grand dome, ornate chapels, and richly detailed artwork.
It was about 5pm when I left the cathedral, which felt like the perfect time to finally take a break and visit Les Enfants Terribles for a cocktail. The restaurant is located on the 44th floor of Place Ville Marie, offering the highest viewpoint for dining in Montreal! I had wanted to sit outside on their rooftop patio, but the wind had been quite strong that day, so outdoor seating wasn’t available. Instead, I stayed at the bar and had the Thé(rrible). It was quite delicious!
Le Plateau-Mont-Royal
I then walked back to the hotel to change to a bit nicer blouse and to relax a minute before my dinner reservation at L’Express, a beloved Parisian-style bistro serving classic French cuisine. Be sure to make your reservation ahead of time. I made my reservation in early April for Saturday, 05/13.
The dinner was exceptional. I had the chicken liver mousse with pistachios with a glass of Chateau La Landotte Medoc 2019 for my appetizer, and the hanger steak with fries with a glass of Chateau Rocher Corbin-Les Promesses 2016 for my main course.
I almost didn’t order the chicken liver mousse, but while waiting, I quickly googled “L’Express menu” and came across a New York Times article mentioning that one of Montreal’s most influential chefs always orders the pistachio-studded chicken liver pâté, followed by veal kidneys in mustard sauce. I was set on the hanger steak for dinner, but figured adding the mousse wouldn’t hurt, and I’m so glad I did! Not only was it delicious, but the gentleman sitting next to me confirmed I had made the right choice, as it’s one of his favorites, too.
After dinner, I walked to Big in Japan, a hidden speakeasy on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Laurent and Rue Rachel, arriving around 8:30 pm. To get there from L’Express, I went down Ave Duluth to Saint-Laurent Boulevard, also known as “The Main,” which offers a vibrant mix of shopping, dining, cultural attractions, and nightlife. It was a little late for shopping, but it was still fun to stroll down the street for a bit.
The speakeasy is tucked behind a nearly unmarked gray door. Inside, the dimly lit, intimate space features heavy curtains, candlelit tables, and a curved bar lined with Japanese whiskey bottles. I ordered the Fleur de Surreau, which was quite delicious.
After about an hour, I was ready for a change of scenery. Unsure where to go next, I wandered down Saint-Laurent Boulevard and heard live music coming from a bar named Barbossa. I figured, why not check it out? While there I watched 2 bands perform. They were really good!
My last stop for the night was Bootlegger Cocktail Bar & Cuisine, a lively spot with inventive cocktails and a warm, inviting ambiance. I arrived around 10:30 pm, and didn’t have any wait, which probably helped since I was by myself.
By 11:30 pm, I walked the five minutes back to the hotel, wrapping up a lively last night in Montreal.
