09/13/2022 - 09/25/2022: All 4 National Parks in Colorado
Table of Contents
After completing a whirlwind tour of all five National Parks, and more, in Utah within two weeks in 2021, I set my sights on Colorado as the next destination to maximize my park visits within a similar timeframe.
I was in Colorado from Tuesday, 09/13/2022 to Sunday, 09/25/2022. During my visit, I dedicated one day to Estes, three days to Rocky Mountain National Park, two days at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a day and a half Mesa Verde National Park, and one full day at Great Sand Dunes National Park.
The timing of my trip was planned to coincide with the new moon, maximizing the visibility of the Milky Way at Great Sand Dunes National Park, an International Dark Sky Park. I am beyond grateful there were clear skies the night I was there! It was a wonderful trip.
I took a morning flight from Chicago O’Hare airport to Denver, picked up a mid-size SUV from the Enterprise at the airport, and drove straight to Discovery Lodge in Estes to check into the hotel.
I chose to stay there because it’s a short walk to downtown Estes and just a four mile drive to the Beaver Meadows Entrance, the main entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. It cost $627.80 for three nights in September 2022, which is a bit more than I usually prefer to spend (I aim for places closer to $150 per night). However, considering the location, it was worth it. Additionally, the hotel was clean, and the bed was nice and comfortable.
So that I’d be able to pack everything for my trip into carry-on luggage, I rented hiking poles from LowerGear Outdoors (hiking poles are not allowed in carry-on bags in the cabin of the plane), but didn’t think to place the order until 09/08/2022. Unfortunately, they wouldn’t arrive in time for me to use them at Rocky Mountain National Park (I was going to be there from 09/13/2022 - 09/17/2022), so I had them sent to the hotel I was staying at for Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Luckily, Estes Park Mountain Show had hiking poles available for rent, though! After picking those up, I went back to the hotel to drop the hiking poles and the car off and wander around Estes to spend the day acclimating to the higher elevation.
I walked along the Estes Park Riverwalk, Moraine Drive, and Elkhorn Drive, stopping at the Original Taffy Shop for a variety of taffy flavors, and had dinner at Poppy’s Pizza & Grill, a charming riverfront restaurant with an outdoor patio. I made sure not to drink any alcohol at dinner, as I had read alcohol may hinder your adjustment to acclimating to higher elevation. Coming from a city with only an average elevation of 597 feet above sea level, to spending 4 days at a park with elevations from 7,860 to 14,259 feet, I wanted to take precautions to avoid any risk of elevation sickness.
After dinner, I walked to the Stanley Hotel, renowned as the inspiration for Stephen King's masterpiece, The Shining. I opted not to join any guided tours and enjoyed simply exploring the hotel's first floor and navigating through its iconic hedge maze. It is such a beautiful hotel with a wonderful view! After spending about an hour wandering around the hotel, I walked back to Discovery Lodge to grab the car and drove to Safeway to buy groceries and settle in for the night.
To access Rocky Mountain National Park, including its outlying areas, visitors are required to either obtain a timed-entry reservation, choosing between Option 1 (grants access to the park via Bear Lake Road from 5am to 6pm) or Option 2 (allows park entry without access to Bear Lake Road from 9am to 2pm) or secure a Service Reservation for camping, guided trips, or commercial tours and having a park pass or entrance fee. I selected Option 1, purchasing a timed entry reservation for 6-8am for the morning of 09/14/2022, which I acquired on 08/01/2022.
I had read that the Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, Lake Haiyaha via Nymph Lake Trail, and Bear Lake Trails were recommended hikes to tackle as one is acclimating to the elevation of Colorado. So, on Wednesday, 09/14/2022, my first full day in Colorado, I drove to the Bear Lake Trailhead to complete those hikes. Given their popularity, I chose to get to the trailhead around 6am. Fortunately, finding a parking spot at that time wasn’t difficult.
The Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, Lake Haiyaha via Nymph Lake Trail is an out-and-back trail, meaning one can turn around at any point to head back to the trailhead. I started the trail at the Bear Lake Trailhead, then continued on the trail to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and to Emerald Lake. When I was done taking photos at Emerald Lake, I retraced my steps towards Dream Lake and followed the signs to Lake Haiyaha. Lake Haiyaha was so pretty to see. In 2022, the lake changed color from a clear blue to a milky turquoise due to exposed glacier sediment in Chaos Canyon, located above Lake Haiyaha, flowing into the lake because of summer rains. After checking out all I could of Lake Haiyaha, I retraced my steps back towards the Bear Lake Trailhead. Next, instead of heading back to the parking lot, I followed the signs to hike the Bear Lake Nature Trail, an easy, tranquil 0.8 mile loop around Bear Lake, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. It’s a good hike for all skill levels and is wheelchair accessible.
According to my AllTrails app, the Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, Lake Haiyaha via Nymph Lake Trail was 6.07 miles and took me a total time of 5 hours, while the Bear Lake Trail was 0.8 miles and took me a total time of 45 minutes to complete.
After completing the Bear Lake Trail hike, I went back to my car to drive Trail Ridge Road, stopping at Many Parks Curve Overlook, Rainbow Curve Overlook, and Tundra Communities Trailhead.
Many Parks Curve and Rainbow Curve offer picturesque overlooks where you can pull off Trail Ridge Road to take in even more of the park's stunning vistas. Many Parks Curve Overlook offers amazing views of Horseshoe Park, Moraine Park, parts of Estes Park, Deer Mountain, and Longs Peak, the highest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park, while Rainbow Curve Overlook provides fantastic views of Hidden Valley, Horseshoe Park, Alluvial Fan, Fall River, and more. Tundra Communities Trail is a 1 mile out-and-back hike. With the Tundra Communities Trail sitting at 12,110 feet in elevation, I was starting to feel the effects of altitude as I drove towards the trailhead. At that point, 14 hours had passed since my arrival in Denver, and I had hoped it would be sufficient time for me to acclimate to the elevation. However, it turned out that it wasn't quite enough. Fortunately, all I was experiencing at that time was a manageable headache, so I pressed on with my journey.
It started drizzling during my hike at the Tundra Communities Trail. Hoping it would remain just a light rain, when I completed the hike I hopped back into the car and drove the short 6 minute drive to Gore Range Overlook. However, by the time I arrived, the rain had intensified into a downpour. Holding out hope for a break in the weather and the chance of witnessing a rainbow, I decided to wait it out for a bit. Unfortunately, I hadn't brought a book and lacked cell reception, leaving me with nothing to do while enduring my growing headache.
Realizing my headache wouldn't subside until I descended to a lower elevation and uncertain of how long the storm would persist, I made the decision to return to the hotel for dinner and relaxation. Later, as I scrolled through Facebook, I saw photos of the rainbow I had missed. While I was disappointed I missed it in person, I was happy my headache was gone, due to being in the lower elevation of Estes Park.
On Thursday, 09/15/2022, I again had a 6-8am timed entry reservation to Rocky Mountain National Park. I kicked off my day watching the sunrise at Sprague Lake, as I had read that it is one of the best places at Rocky Mountain National Park to capture it. In my opinion, it did not disappoint. The Sprague Lake Trail is a pleasant and easy 1 mile loop. I arrived at 6:15am, 30 minutes before sunrise, and wound up spending about 2 hours at the lake, getting photos and walking around it. It was a wonderful start to the day.
I had a reservation at National Park Gateway Stables for a 2 hour horseback ride from 10am-12pm. But, by the time I was done at Sprague Lake, it was only 8am. With time to spare before the horseback ride, I drove to Deer Mountain Trailhead to enjoy an hour hiking some of that trail.
Elk rutting season occurs in Colorado from mid-September to mid-October. During this time, the elk, particularly the bulls, become more active as they vie for the female elk. I was very excited to see some elk out and about as I drove to the Deer Mountain Trailhead!
The Deer Mountain Trail is a 6 mile out-and-back hike, meaning. It starts out in a valley and steadily ascends through a dense forest of ponderosa pines, providing panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. I hiked about 1.8 miles of the trail, departing at 9:30am to ensure I had ample time to reach National Park Gateway Stables.
National Park Gateway Stables offers a variety of horseback ride options, ranging from 2-hour rides to full-day rides lasting 8 or 9 hours. I opted for the 2-hour ride, which is their most popular choice. This horseback ride follows the Fall River to the base of Deer Mountain, passing through the Aspen Glen area into Lil Horseshoe Park and Hidden Meadows. It was a beautiful way to see the park!
Rocky Mountain National Park features four entrance gates: Beaver Meadows and Fall River on the park's east side, Wild Basin in the southeast corner, and Grand Lake on the west side. Until then, I had exclusively entered through the Beaver Meadows gate. Seeking a change of scenery, I decided to venture to the more remote Wild Basin entrance, approximately an hour's drive from National Gateway Stables to hike the Ouzel Falls trail. The 5.3 mile out-and-back hike treats you to 3 waterfalls: Copeland Falls, Calypso Cascades, and Ouzel Falls. I arrived at the trailhead around 1:30pm.
As the hike was an out-and-back route, I again had the flexibility to turn around whenever needed. Upon reaching Calypso Cascades, I realized the toll the long day had taken on me. Despite my initial goal of reaching Ouzel Falls, an impressive 40-foot waterfall, I decided to turn around at Calypso Cascades, making it a 4.4 mile round trip instead.
Next, I drove back to the hotel, stopping at Lily Lake on the way to get some photos. While the Lily Lake Trail is an easy 1 mile loop trail, I opted to just get some photos from the trailhead, instead of walking around the entire lake.
Satisfied with the couple of photos I took, I returned to the hotel around 5:30pm and settled in for the night.
Friday, 09/16/2022 was my last, and definitely my longest, day at Rocky Mountain National Park, as it was the day I hiked to Sky Pond, a 9+ miles round trip hike with approximately 1600 elevation gain. The trail is challenging, but rewarding with spectacular views, making it one of the best hikes in the park.
I left the hotel at 4am, arriving at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead by 5am. There are 2 trailheads to reach Sky Pond: Glacier Gorge Trailhead or Bear Lake Trailhead. Glacier Gorge is the ideal place to start the hike, as the distance is the shortest. But, the parking lot is small and fills up quickly. Arriving at 5am, I didn’t have any problems finding a parking spot. According to the nps.gov website, it’s best to get to the parking lot for the Glacier Gorge Trailhead by 6am and the Bear Lake Trailhead by 8:30am to get a spot. If both of those are full, the free shuttle is a fine alternative.
I again had a 6-8am timed entry reservation to Rocky Mountain National Park. But, I didn't need to show it, since I went through the entrance before 5am.
Once on the trail, I followed the signs to Alberta Falls and Sky Pond. Alberta Falls, one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the park, is about ¾ of a mile into the hike. Past Alberta Falls, the trail slowly gains in elevation. At about 2.5 miles is The Loch, a beautiful sub-alpine lake. Beyond the lake, the trail continues to climb again, leading you to Timberline Falls, a beautiful waterfall that you scramble up to reach Lake of Glass. The rocks are slippery, so take your time scrambling up. If you have hiking poles, make sure to put them in your pack so that both hands are free as you go up the scramble.
Beyond the scramble, Lake of Glass is just a couple of steps away, while Sky Pond is still about a half mile farther. I reached Sky Pond around 10am, feeling exhilarated from the hike. My plan was to spend some time there, have a snack, and relish in the achievement. However, the winds were so strong at that altitude that I didn't last up there that long. Instead, I decided to eat my lunch at The Loch.
I finished the hike around 2pm, taking just over 8 hours to complete. Be sure to bring plenty of water, food, and layers for the hike. In my daypack, I had my Patagonia jacket, long-sleeved base layer, dry wick short sleeved shirt, and rain jacket, all of which I used at one point or another during the hike (it rained lightly for about 30 minutes on the way down).
After the hike, I stopped at Estes Park Mountain Shop to return the hiking poles I had rented from them, went back to the hotel to shower and change, and set off to drive Trail Ridge Road to see the overlooks I had missed on Wednesday.
I drove as far west as Farview Curve Overlook, stopping briefly at Rainbow Curve Overlook, arriving around 6pm. Farview Curve Overlook offers breathtaking views of the Kawuneeche Valley and the Never Summer Mountains, which comprise the western boundary of the park. Afterward, I made my way east, stopping at Medicine Bow Curve to see the northernmost areas of Rocky Mountain National Park. Forest Canyon Overlook was my last stop. I arrived there at 7pm, just in time to watch the sunset. Perched high above the forested slopes, the overlook offers sweeping views of Forest Canyon, Longs Peak, Stone’s Peak, Hayden Gorge, and the Gorge Lakes. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the changing hues of the sky reflected off the rugged peaks of the surrounding mountains, creating a stunning display of colors. It really was a beautiful way to end the long day.
Returning to the hotel, I dropped off the car, and walked to Ed’s Cantina, a vibrant, locally owned, restaurant serving up traditional Mexican food, margaritas, and beer, where I treated myself to dinner and a margarita.
On Saturday, 09/17/2022, I checked out of Discovery Lodge and drove to the Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose, the hotel I stayed at during my trip to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.
Just before I left Discovery Lodge, I was treated to another sighting of the elk wandering around the grounds! It was a wonderful farewell to Rocky Mountain National Park.
I left Discovery Lodge around 9am, taking I-70 W, and arrived at Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose around 4pm.
I chose to stay there because it was conveniently located just a 12 mile drive from the entrance to the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and only a mile from downtown Montrose, the closest town to the park. Additionally, the people at the front desk were nice and welcoming when I called ahead to ask if I could send the hiking poles I was renting from LowerGear Outdoors to their hotel before my trip. They also had a washer and dryer, which came in handy after four days of hiking. The cost was $467.25 for three nights in September 2022.
After checking in, I headed out to City Market to pick up some supplies, then returned to the hotel to relax. Exhausted from the long drive and anticipating another full day ahead, I went to bed early.
The following day, Sunday, 09/18/2022, was spent exploring the entirety of the South Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, which is the busier, more developed side of the park.
I started my day by watching the sunrise at Dragon Point Overlook, one of the 12 overlooks along the South Rim Road, the scenic road that follows the canyon rim for 7 miles from Tomichi Point to High Point.
Next, I headed to Campground Loop C, located near the park entrance, to hike the Rim Rock Nature Trail. This mostly flat trail runs along the rim, offering excellent views of the Gunnison River and the sheer walls of the canyon, and ends at the South Rim Visitor Center. The 2 mile out-and-back hike took me about 1.5 hours to complete.
After hiking back to my car at Campground Loop C, I drove down East Portal Road to the Gunnison River. This steep and winding road offers the easiest way to get down to the river and is located right next to the South Rim Entrance Station. Immediately after passing through the entrance station, look for the signed road on the right. I spent about an hour wandering along the Gunnison River.
Next, I drove back up East Portal Road to drive the entirety of South Rim Road, stopping at the overlooks along the way. Most overlooks are reached by short trails, ranging from 100 yards (Gunnison Point and Chasm View) to 357 yards (Cross Fissures View). The longest walk is to Devil’s Lookout, which is 607 yards.
High Point is the last overlook on the South Rim Drive and serves as the trailhead for the Warner Point Nature Trail. The trail winds around the South Rim, offering breathtaking views of the Gunnison River slicing through the sheer cliffs of the Black Canyon. To the south, you can see the San Juan Mountain Range, Uncompahgre Valley, and Bostwick Park. Looking north, you'll find the West Elk Mountains. The trail ends with stunning views of the Gunnison River and the Black Canyon. It took me about an hour to complete the 1.5 mile hike.
Next, I headed to Cedar Point Nature Trail. The trail qualifies as a nature trail because it has signs explaining the flora around in the area. At the end of the 0.5 mile out-and-back trail are two overlooks offering breathtaking views of the river and the famous Painted Wall, recognized as the tallest cliff in Colorado, at an impressive 2,250 feet. It was a beautiful spot to watch the sunset.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park was certified as an International Dark Sky Park in September 2015. In April 2022, I upgraded my camera from the Canon Rebel T6 to the Canon R6, partially because I had read it was a powerful camera for astrophotography. Living in the light-pollution filled city of Chicago since 2007, I am presented with limited opportunities for night sky photography. As exhausted as I was from being at Black Canyon of the Gunnison since before dawn, I was so excited to finally have a chance to capture the stars!
According to the PhotoPills app, the Galactic Center of Visibility (the Milky Way Core) would be visible from 8:43-11:23pm. Since the start time was only about an hour after sunset, which had been at 7:14pm, I was determined to stick around for just a little longer to try to get some good photos!
I opted for the Chasm View overlook for stargazing due to its distance from the road and the shielding it provides from the headlights of passing cars. Despite it only being a brief walk from my car to the spot where I positioned my camera, I made certain to bring along my headlamp! Satisfied with the photos I got, I finally left the park around 10pm, to head back to the hotel and crawl into bed.
On Monday, 09/19/2022, I explored the North Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, known for being the quieter, less crowded, more primitive side of the park.
Spanning four and a half miles, North Rim Drive Road encompasses five overlooks: Kneeling Camel View, Island Peaks View, Big Island Overlook, Balanced Rock Overlook, and The Narrows. I started all the way at the end of the road, at Kneeling Camel View, arriving at approximately 8am, and gradually made my way back to the Visitor Center, stopping at each of the overlooks along the way. Each one requires only a brief walk from the parking area.
In addition to 5 overlooks in the North Rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison, there are 4 hikes: Chasm View Nature Trail (0.33 miles round-trip), North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point (3 miles round-trip), Green Mountain (7 miles round-trip), and Deadhorse Trail (5 miles round-trip). As much as I wanted to hike all of them, I chose to tackle the North Vista Trail and Chasm View Nature Trail.
North Vista Trail conveniently starts from the parking lot near the Ranger Station, which is where I ended up, after driving the entirety of the North Rim Drive Road. After passing through an area of sage and oak brush, the trail meanders along the canyon’s rim in a forest of pines and junipers, offering numerous overlooks that provide views of the SOB draw and the inner canyon. Exclamation Point boasts one of the park's most breathtaking views, offering a direct perspective into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. It took me about 2 hours to complete the 3 mile out-and-back hike.
After completing the North Vista Trail, I went back to my car to drive to the Chasm View Nature Trail trailhead, located near the North Rim Campground. This short hiking trail loops around the North Rim Campground and provides stunning views of the Painted Wall. Additionally, there is a chance to spot individuals at the overlooks on the South Rim. It took me about 50 minutes to complete the 0.75 mile hike.
I left the North Rim around 3:30pm to drive the 1.5 hours back to my hotel. After freshening up and changing clothes, I headed treated myself with dinner at Horsefly Brewing Company. Situated in the heart of Montrose on Main Street, Horsefly Brewery offers a wide selection of handcrafted beers, delicious pub fare, and a fantastic patio for enjoying the evening.
On Tuesday, 09/20/2022, I drove from the Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose to the Retro Inn at Mesa Verde in Cortez, CO, arriving around 12pm. Luckily, the room was ready, and they let me check in early.
I had been considering staying at Far View Lodge, the hotel located within Mesa Verde National Park. However, I knew I wanted to have dinner at La Casita de Cortez, a well-rated Mexican restaurant in Cortez, the larger of the two towns near the park (Mancos is the other). Therefore, I felt like it made more sense to stay outside the park rather than spend up to an hour and a half driving for dinner on my last night. Additionally, at only $213.03 for two nights in September 2022, the hotel was very affordable.
After changing into hiking clothes, I headed back out to hike Point Lookout Trail and Knife Edge Trail at Mesa Verde National Park, both trailheads being just a few minutes away from each other on the northeast side of the park, and only a 20 minute drive from the hotel.
Point Lookout Trail leaves from the Morefield campground, ascending a series of steep switchbacks for approximately 0.5 miles along the backside of the mesa. From there, it crosses along the top of the mesa to Point Lookout, providing stunning views over the surrounding countryside, including both Montezuma and Mancos Valleys. It started drizzling when I arrived at the Point Lookout Trail trailhead. Armed with my trusty rain jacket and a rain cover for my daypack, I decided to brave the weather and start hiking. The higher up I got (the hike only has 528 feet of elevation gain, but it is something), the more nervous I became about lightning striking. Luckily, about 0.5 miles from Point Lookout, looking to the east, were beautiful views of the Mancos Valley. Content with what I saw, I decided to head back down to lower ground. The 2.3 mile out-and-back hike took me approximately an hour to complete.
The rain stopped when I got back to my car, so I drove the couple of minutes from Morefield campground to Knife Edge Trail, an easy trail along a section of the old Knife Edge Road, dating from 1914. Today, it is an easy, mostly flat walk. At the end are wonderful views of Montezuma Valley. Along the trail, heading back to the trailhead, you can also see Point Lookout. It took me about an hour to hike the 2.2 mile out-and-back hike.
After completing both hikes, I left the park to make a stop at the Walmart Supercenter for supplies before returning to the hotel to unwind for the night.
On Wednesday, 09/21/2022, I had reservations for two ranger-guided tours: one at 9am at Cliff Palace and the other at 3pm at Long House. I departed Retro Inn at Mesa Verde at 6:30am to ensure I arrived at Cliff Palace on time, making stops at Montezuma Valley Overlook, Park Point Overlook, and Geologic Overlook along the way, as well as purchasing a magnet at the gift shop.
Cliff Palace is the largest and most famous cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde National Park, with over 150 individual rooms and more than 20 kivas (rooms for religious rituals). The one-hour, ranger-guided tour involves 120 uneven stone steps and climbing five, 8-10 foot (2.6-3m) ladders on a 100 foot (30m) vertical climb, covering a total walking distance of about 1/4 mile (400m) round-trip.
Following the Cliff Palace Tour, I made a quick stop at Hemenway House Overlook to get some photos, before proceeding to the Soda Canyon Overlook Trailhead.
The Soda Canyon Overlook Trail is an easy 1.2 mile out-and-back trail winding through the mesa top pinyon-juniper forest to three overlooks at the edge of Soda Canyon. This vantage point also offers the sole view of Balcony House without requiring a ranger-guided tour. It took me about 40 minutes to complete the hike.
Next, I visited Spruce Tree House, the third largest cliff dwelling in the park. Due to safety concerns related to rock falls from the alcove surrounding Spruce Tree House, the cliff dwelling has been closed since 02/23/2016, and remains closed for the foreseeable future. While exploring the dwelling itself is not possible, the overlooks near the museum still provide superb views of the Spruce Tree House.
Departing Spruce Tree House around 12:30pm, I set my sights on the Wetherill Mesa area of the park, arriving at the parking lot around 1:30pm. With time before the Long House Tour, I hiked the 1 mile trail to Step House, the smallest of the five main dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park. The self-paced visit allows for exploration at leisure, with a ranger on duty in the dwelling to answer questions. It took me approximately 50 minutes to hike to Step House and back.
Finally, I made my way to the trailhead for Long House, the second-largest cliff dwelling in the park. Long House is nearly equal in size to Cliff Palace with about 150 rooms, 21 kivas, and a row of upper storage rooms. It may have been home to 150 to 175 people. The two-hour tour involves a 2.25 mile round-trip hike with steep switchbacks, stairs, and two 15-foot ladders.
Leaving the park around 4pm, I returned to the hotel to freshen up before dining at La Casita de Cortez for some delicious Mexican food, followed by a refreshing beer at Main Street Brewery.
On Thursday, 09/22/2022, I checked out of Retro Inn at Mesa Verde and drove to Best Western Inn Alamosa. There are two routes to get from Cortez, CO, to Alamosa, CO: US Highway 160 all the way or a combination of US Highway 160 and US Highway 84, which involves driving south into New Mexico for a bit before heading back north to Colorado. I had read Highway 160 can be a dangerous highway to drive on, particularly the section beyond Highway 84, especially in poor conditions. It was raining quite heavily that day, so, I chose the latter route.
I left Retro Inn at Mesa Verde around 9am, and arrived at Best Western Alamosa around 12pm. Once again, luck was on my side as the room was ready, and they allowed me to check in early.
I chose to stay there because it was only a mile from downtown Alamosa, the closest town to Great Sand Dunes National Park, and just a 32 mile drive to the park. It was also relatively affordable, costing $350.04 for three nights in September 2022.
After checking in , I went back out to walk around downtown Alamosa, exploring the town. Knowing the next day was going to be a long day, I returned to the hotel around 5pm to relax and head to bed early.
I spent 16 hours at Great Sand Dunes National Park on Friday, 09/23/2022. While Friday wasn’t the evening of the new moon, the moon was only 5.9% full, still providing an excellent opportunity to observe the Milky Way in all its splendor.
I arrived at the park at 6am, just in time to get my camera and tripod set up to capture the soft glow of first light at 6:21am and the subsequent sunrise at 6:51am from Medano Creek, a wide creek that flows at the base of the dunes. By positioning myself there, I was able to watch as the sun rose up above the dunes. While the heavy rainstorm had not been fun to drive in the previous day, it did increase the creek's flow, which was a really cool sight to see!
Around 8am, I began the hike to High Dune, pausing to capture photos along the way. High Dune is one of the most popular destinations in the dunefield, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire expanse.
There are no designated trails in the sand or the dunefield. I reached High Dune around 12pm. To celebrate the accomplishment, I sat down to eat a Clif Bar, but didn't stay long, as the wind started picking up all around me, throwing sand in my face, making it not a very pleasant experience to be up there anymore. Not only do the winds pick up in the afternoon, the sand surface can reach 150 degrees F. Therefore, it’s best to hike the dunes in the early morning or the evening.
After spending about 7 hours exploring the dunes, I decided to switch things up and immerse myself in the forests of aspen, pine, fir, and spruce surrounding the Dunes by hiking the Montville Nature Trail and Mosca Pass Trail. The trailhead for both trails is located in a parking area just north of Visitor Center parking. If the lot is full, the trailhead is a short, easy walk from the north end of the parking lot for the Visitor Center.
The Montville Nature Trail is a 0.5 mile hike, following a route named for a late 1800s settlement, comprising 20 houses in its heyday. The Mosca Pass Trail continues past Montville Nature Trail, following Mosca Creek and climbing steadily through the forest on the west side of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. While the Mosca Pass Trail is a 7 mile round-trip out-and-back hike, I opted to turn around after hiking for 1.5 miles, making it just a 3 mile round-trip hike. The trails provided the perfect escape from the heat of the dunes.
Next, I drove to the Pinon Flats Campground, for a different perspective of the park, relaxed for a bit at the Visitor Center, and then at the picnic area adjacent to the Dunes parking lot until about 6pm. Armed with my camera and tripod, I then walked to the Medano Creek area to spend an hour photographing the sunset over the dunes, which occurred at 6:58pm that day.
After reveling in the beauty of the sunset, I headed to the Great Sand Dunes' outdoor amphitheater to attend the Ranger Program, which began at dusk and lasted about 30 minutes. It was the perfect way to pass the time as I eagerly awaited the Galactic Center of Visibility, also known as the Milky Way Core, which was scheduled to occur from 8:23pm to 10:54pm.
After the program, I drove back to the Dunes parking lot to photograph the Milky Way from the Medano Creek area. It was a breathtaking sight to see! I was so grateful to have clear skies that night. Departing the park around 10pm, I returned to the hotel by approximately 10:45pm. After showering and changing, I finally headed to bed for some well-deserved rest.
On Saturday, 09/24/2022, I drove 45 minutes to hike the Zapata Falls Trail, a 1 mile out-and-back journey leading to a secluded 25 foot waterfall tucked away in a rocky crevasse of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Arriving at the trailhead around 9:15am, I eagerly began my hike.
Despite spending almost an hour traversing the trail and capturing photos along the way, I unfortunately didn't reach the waterfall. To access it, one must wade through the creek water. Mistakenly leaving my hiking poles in the car, I hesitated to venture into the water, fearing I might slip and risk damaging my camera. Nevertheless, I still enjoyed all that the hike had to offer.
At around 10:30am, I departed Zapata Falls and headed back to the hotel to change into my swimsuit, preparing for an afternoon of relaxation at Sand Dunes Recreation, a peaceful oasis nestled in the San Luis Valley. Before my visit, I made a quick stop at the FedEx inside Walgreens in Alamosa to drop off the hiking poles for return to LowerGear Outdoors.
I spent about 3 hours at Sand Dunes Recreation, primarily hanging out in the Greenhouse, an adults-only section offering four soaking pools at different temperatures, a sauna, tropical gardens, and some small plates, beer, and wine. While the Greenhouse section was amazing, it is an enclosed space. The weather that day was so beautiful, I couldn't resist spending some time reading outside by the large pool. Fortunately, I managed to secure a lounge chair before making my way back to the hotel to shower and change before heading back out for dinner.
My last stop of the day was the San Luis Valley Brewing Company, a locally focused, small batch craft brewery and restaurant. It was the perfect way to end my time at Great Sand Dunes National Park.
On Sunday, September 25, 2022, I embarked on the final leg of my two-week hiking adventure in Colorado. After checking out of the hotel at 10:30am, I drove 2.5 hours to Phantom Canyon Brewing Company in Colorado Springs, renowned as the city's oldest brewery. Housed in the historic Cheyenne building, constructed in 1901, Phantom Canyon Brewing Company offers award-winning craft beer and delicious food.
After savoring the experience, I drove the additional 1.5 hours to return the car at the Enterprise Rent-a-Car facility at the Denver airport and fly home.
Tuesday, 09/13/2022: Flew from Chicago to Denver, picked up rental car, checked into hotel, wandered around Estes
United flight at 10:40am to arrive in Denver at 12:20pm
Picked up rental car from Enterprise
Drove to Estes Park Mountain Shop to rent hiking poles
Checked into Discovery Lodge
Walked to the Town of Estes Park Visitor Center
Walked along the Estes Park Riverwalk
Walked along Moraine Drive and Elkhorn Drive
Two fantastic roads that you can walk through in the downtown area of Estes Park, Colorado
Packed with more than 200 different shops, it’s a fun way to explore local storefronts, galleries, restaurants, and more
Stopped at The Original Taffy Shop
Dinner at Poppy's Pizza & Grill
Walked to the Stanley Hotel
Grabbed the car to drive to Safeway for groceries
Wednesday, 09/14/2022: Rocky Mountain National Park
Hiked Nymph, Dream, Emerald, and Haiyaha Lakes
Hiked Bear Lake Nature Trail
Drove Trail Ridge Road
Stopped at the following overlooks
Many Parks Curve
Rainbow Curve
Tundra Communities Trail
The rain came. Sought shelter at the Gore Range Overlook for a bit
Thursday, 09/15/2022: Rocky Mountain National Park
Sunrise photos at Sprague Lake
Walked the Sprague Lake Loop
Hiked some of the Deer Mountain Trail
Horseback riding with National Park Gateway Stables from 10am - 12pm
Hiked Copeland Falls and Calypso Cascades
Friday, 09/16/2022: Rocky Mountain National Park
Hiked Sky Pond via Glacier Gorge Trail
Went back to Estes Park Mountain Shop to return the hiking poles
Drove Trail Ridge Road, stopping at the following overlooks
Farview Curve Overlook
Medicine Bow Curve
Dinner at Ed’s Cantina
Saturday, 09/17/2022: Drove from Discovery Lodge to Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose
Checked out of Discovery Lodge
Drove to Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose to check in
Stopped at City Market for groceries
Sunday, 09/18/2022: Black Canyon of the Gunnison - South Rim
Watched the sunrise at Dragon Point
Hiked Rim Rock Nature Trail
Drove East Portal Road to the Gunnison River
Drove the South Rim Drive, stopping at the following overlooks:
Pulpit Rock Overlook
Cross Fissures View
Rock Point
Devil’s Lookout
Chasm View
Painted Wall
Dragon Point
Sunset View
High Point
Warner Point
Hiked Warner Point Nature Trail
Hiked Cedar Point Nature Trail
Watched the sunset from Cedar Point Nature Trail
Night sky photos at Chasm View
Monday, 09/19/2022: Black Canyon of the Gunnison - North Rim
Drove the North Rim stopping at the following overlooks:
Kneeling Camel View
Island Peaks View
Big Island View
Balanced Rock View
Narrows Overlook
Chasm View Nature Trail
Hiked North Vista Trail out to Exclamation Point
Dinner at Horsefly Brewing Company
Tuesday, 09/20/2022: Drove from Super 8 by Wyndham to Retro Inn Cortez and Mesa Verde National Park
Checked out of Super 8 by Wyndham Montrose
Drove to Retro Inn Cortez to check in
Hiked Mesa Verde Point Lookout Trail
Hiked Knife Edge Trail
Wednesday, 09/21/2022: Mesa Verde National Park
Drove from Retro Inn Mesa Verde to Cliff Palace cliff dwelling
Stopped at the following overlooks along the way:
Montezuma Valley Overlook
Park Point Overlook
Geologic Overlook
Stopped at the Gift Shop
Cliff Palace cliff dwelling
9-9:30am
Hiked Soda Canyon Overlook Trail
Long House tour
Dinner at La Casita de Cortez
Beer at Main Street Brewery
Thursday, 09/22/2022: Drove from Retro Inn Mesa Verde to Best Western Alamosa
Checked out of Retro Inn Mesa Verde
Drove to Best Western Alamosa to check in
Friday, 09/23/2022: All day at Great Sand Dunes National Park
Drove from Best Western Alamosa to Great Sand Dunes
Got sunrise photos from the Medano Creek area
Hiked to High Dune
The wind picked up around 12:30pm
Hiked Mosca Pass Trail
Went to the Visitor Center to buy a magnet, drove around the park campground area, hung out at the park until night
Watched a Ranger Program, waiting for the Galactic Center of Visibility (8:23pm - 10:54pm)
Went back to Medano Creek area to get photos of the Milky Way
Saturday, 09/24/2022: Zapata Falls Trail and Sand Dunes Recreation
Hiked Zapata Falls Trail
Dropped off the hiking poles at a FedEx location
Spent the afternoon at Sand Dunes Recreation
Dinner at San Luis Valley Brewing Company
Sunday, 09/25/2022: Drove from Best Western Alamosa Inn to Colorado Springs for lunch and then to Denver to drop off rental car and fly home
Checked out of Best Western Alamosa
Drove to Colorado Springs
Stopped at Phantom Canyon Brewing Company for lunch
Drove from Colorado Springs to Enterprise to drop off the car
United flight at 7:25pm to arrive back in Chicago at 10:49pm
